Vintage CANTRIPUM Two Pocket Selvedge Denim Jacket and Antique Flange Sign

 

CANTRIPUM brand union made two pocket denim jacket manufactured by Hooker, Corser & Mitchell Co. of Brattleboro, VT.
This recent auction sale is constructed of narrow loom denim of which the selvedge edge can be seen on the back side of both right and left side button & button hole plackets. The closely spaced white stitching with a large count per inch contrasts nicely with the dark indigo denim. Additional details including wreath & star donut type buttons, Cantripum script loomed neck label and United Garment Workers of America union label likely date this jacket to the 1930's. A similar jacket seen here was featured in the Vintage Clothing Auction of Rin Tanaka's 4th Annual Kulture Recycling Show, Inspiration in February 2012. 

The Cantripum Brand Overalls Coats and Khaki Goods flange sign seen at the top of this post was pulled from the web some time ago and helped in identifying the script label of this jacket.

VINTAGE HEADLIGHT OVERALLS PATENTED BIB POCKET

Vintage HEADLIGHT Overalls with patented bib pocket design

Talon brand brass heavy duty zipper opens to reveal large pocket located behind conventional bib patch type pockets

Close up of the right side patch pocket watch pocket opening shows denim red line selvedge edging

Proprietary bib pocket found on vintage HEADLIGHT Union Made Overalls. Pocket design, Talon zipper and HEADLIGHT loomed label most likely date this pair of overalls to the 1940's era, possibly as late as the 1950's. This particular pocket design was filed by inventor Oscar Berman on November 24th 1936 and was patented on April 18th 1939. The design provided four different pockets located on the front bib portion of the overalls including right and left side patch pockets, watch pocket (separated from the right patch pocket by sail cloth not seen in photo) and the patented larger pocket located behind the patch pockets and accessed via the zippered opening. Patent information is seen below.

1940s-1950s Era BLUE WING Indigo Denim Button Fly Lace Back Dungarees

BLUE WING registered trademark printed label. Not quite sure of the answer to the A LITLE BETR puzzle that finds the second T in LITTLE and the second T & E in BETTER omitted. Was another manufacturer already using the phrase A LITTLE BETTER?

This pair of Blue Wing brand button fly lace back dungarees likely dates to the 1940s-1950s and has been part of the vintage workwear archive since around 2003. We had offered these for sale via The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co. at The Rose Bowl a few years back for what we believed to be the reasonable price of just over $250 but didn't get much interest at the time, likely due to the smaller sized 30" waist and the wider leg opening. This pair would later be used for design inspiration for the lace back adjustment on the BEAR BRAND Indigo Dyed Selvedge Denim Engineer & Workman Cap below, available via The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co.

CARTER'S Watch the Wear: The Vintage Garments Part 1

Deadstock CARTER'S Watch the Wear Union Made button front dungarees. Manufactured by H.W. Carter & Sons, likely dating to the 1950s, possibly as early as late 1940s. This garment includes the following details.

• Indigo dyed selvedge denim with heavy grain

• Double needle top stitching in two shades of green 

• Chain stitched main seams and waistband

• Green bar-tacking at points of strain

• Button front fly with Scovill nickle plated embossed snap closure

• Diamond crotch gusset

• CARTERS Watch the Wear machine loomed rayon label

• Union Made in the USA

Close up of CARTER'S Watch the Wear machine loomed rayon label

Interior view of chain stitched main seams and waistband and bar-tacked belt loop details

 Scovill nickle plated embossed front snap closure. Later snaps would be brass gilt plated

Button fly with donut hole type buttons

Diamond crotch gusset often seen in vintage work pants (rarely seen in dungarees)

Close up of the heavy grain indigo dyed selvedge denim. Double needle top stitching in two shades of green thread

Interior close up of chain stitched main seams with green and yellow thread

A.F. of L. United Garment Workers of America DUCK GOODS union label

Inspection tag found inside the lined back pocket states "Guaranteed to be of extra high quality, a new one free if not completely satisfied"

Exposed selvedge edge on inside leg seam

Vintage 1950s-60s CARTERS Watch the Wear indigo dyed selvedge denim apron with embossed Scovill gilt buttons and dual prong type single loop buckle strap fasteners.

Apron includes the following details.

• Indigo dyed selvedge denim with heavy grain

• Primitive crude construction with single needle stitching and lots of character 

• Bar-tacking at points of strain

• Attached selvedge edge denim straps with Scovill gilt plated embossed shank buttons and single loop prong type fasteners

• CARTER'S Watch the Wear printed rayon label

• Union Made in the USA

1950s-60s era CARTER'S Watch the Wear work apron

Printed rayon label

Backside shows narrow loom denim with exposed selvedge edging. Also seen is crudely sewn upper extension piece that has been added to the not so horizontal edge of the single piece main body of the apron

Scovill embossed gilt fastener and single loop prong type buckle

More selvedge and close up of unique single loop buckle fastener

A.F of L. United Garment Workers of America DUCK GOODS union label

We have been a big fans of CARTER's Watch the Wear vintage for some time now having worn, collected and sold more than a few garments over the past few years. Above is part 1 of a multi part installment featuring vintage NOS and used CARTER'S Watch the Wear garments from the vintage workwear archive. We were pleased to see the reintroduction of the proud H. W. CARTER name to the world of vintage inspired workwear, especially when considering the talented folks behind the effort. From what I've seen, the new H.W. Carter & Sons collection of aprons, chore coats, dungarees and especially the more affordable staple of the working man, the bandanna all look real nice.
For those having not already done so, check out some of the new gear and get the lowdown via A CONTINUOUS LEAN and RivetHEAD.

The 1996 court case between H.W. CARTER & SONS, INC., and AMERICAN MARKETING ENTERPRISES, INC., Plaintiffs, against THE WILLIAM CARTER CO., Defendant provides a basic history of both brands and an explanation of the H.W. Carter & Sons CARTER'S Watch the Wear line of work clothing "coexisting" with Wm. Carter's line of children's clothes since the 1860's.

Deadstock 1960s Lee 191-Z JELT DENIM UNION MADE SANFORIZED Carpenter Dungaree

VINTAGE MONTGOMERY WARD 101 BUCKLE BACK RIDER'S JACKET

Close up shows backside of front pleats, selvedge denim detailing and chain stitched bottom band, also printed 101 ONE-O-ONE Bucking Bronco label

Vintage Montgomery Ward 101 unlined Riders Jacket circa late 1940's- early 1950's.
Details include •SANFORIZED• selvedge denim, Western styling, Front pleats, Copper riveted chest pockets & cuffs, Copper riveted buckle back strap, Rust-proof metal button front & cuffs. Jacket was available in both 8 oz & 11 oz denim.

Image of lined jacket version with zipper taken from 1949-1950 Montgomery Ward Fall-Winter Catalog

Jacket description taken from 1949-1950 Montgomery Ward Fall-Winter Catalog

101 Riders Jacket color photos courtesy of roccoroman